Sentir el sonido del silencio – Viaje Groenlandia (1ª parte)

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Groenlandia, una de las últimas fronteras del mundo moderno

La historia de Groenlandia (Kalaallit Nunaat en su idioma) es la historia de una vida bajo condiciones árticas extremas. Se cuenta que los primeros pobladores procedían de Asia y grupos migratorios del Norte de América, rasgos que aún hoy se ven en la población autóctona de la isla, los inuits. Para los europeos, Groenlandia era desconocida hasta la llegada de los vikingos en el siglo X, que le dieron su actual nombre “Greenland” (tierra verde), para hacerla apetecible a los pobladores europeos. Desde 1953, Groenlandia mantiene un estatus de semi-autonomía dentro de Dinamarca, país que gracias a sus subvenciones ha contribuido, y sigue contribuyendo, a mejorar las duras condiciones de vida de los groenlandeses.

Nuestro destino: El sureste de Groenlandia

Nuestra expedición se desarrolla en el sureste de Groenlandia, a una latitud cercana al casquete polar. Esta parte del pais se compone de un sinfin de pequeñas islas y penínsulas separadas por fiordos. Posee apenas unas pequeñas zonas donde el clima es más suave en verano y las temperaturas pueden llegar hasta 10° C. En esta época desaparece casi por completo el hielo de banquisa que en invierno viene arrastrada por la corriente de Groenlandia Oriental desde el Océano Ártico.

Expedición a un mundo desconocido y mágico

La percepción de que voy hacia un mundo mágico y desconocido empieza antes de aterrizar en Narsarsuaq, cuando el avión procedente de Reikjavik sobrevuela una parte de Groenlandia llamada “Inlandis”, la gran masa de hielo que cubre el centro del país, salpimentado sólo por los “Nunataks” o islas de roca. Había utilizado alguna vez la expresión “donde el cielo y la tierra se dan la mano”, refiriéndome a grandes planicies que contrastan en un bello juego de colores con el cielo. Pero en el momento de ver Inlandis me doy cuenta que es realmente aquí donde el cielo y la tierra se funden en una armoniosa unidad, es imposible distinguir donde termina la tierra y donde empieza el cielo.

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Narsarsuak – Qassiarsuk

El vuelo de Reikjavik a Narsarsuaq, un pequeño aeropuerto de origen militar, dura unas 2 horas.

De Narsarsuaq nos llevan en barco a Qassiarsuk al otro lado del fiordo, un pequeño pueblo de unos 40 habitantes donde se encuentra el albergue, el Leif Ericsson, base de la expedición, donde pasamos la primera noche.

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Valle de las Mil Flores

El equipo está formado por siete aventureros y dos guías. Las presentaciones se hicieron la noche anterior y todos estamos a la expectativa de qué nos espera en ese mundo tan aislado y algo salvaje. Nuestra primera excursión a pie nos lleva al Valle de las Mil Flores. Cruzamos nuevamente el fiordo y nos adentramos en el enorme valle formado por el retroceso y la consiguiente sedimentación glaciar. Conforme vamos subiendo monte arriba, me sorprende a cada instante el verde paisaje salpicado de coloridos flores e idílicos lagos, esperaba encontrarme un mundo más helado y más inhóspito. Pero al final del valle llega este mundo con el glaciar “Kiattut”, con unas panorámicas espectaculares del hielo y sus nunataks.

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Granja de Tasiusaq

El día siguiente amanece gris y presagia lluvia, cosa normal en Groenlandia en esta época. Desde Qassiarsuk emprendemos una caminata hasta la granja de Tasiusaq, donde viven 7 personas en constante aislamiento durante el largo y duro invierno.

El paisaje es muy rocoso y caminamos sobre la tundra que es la vegetación más común en esa región. Llegamos hasta el fiordo Sermilik, bloqueado por el hielo de enormes icebergs procedentes del glaciar Eqaloruutsit.

Comemos pick-nick resguardado en un típico iglú de los nómadas de Groenlandia, a diferenciar de los de hielo o piel de vejiga de foca que se utilizan en Alaska.

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Qaleraliq – Fletanes

Después de dos días de aclimatación empieza nuestra expedición de verdad. La zodiac nos lleva en un viaje de 2 horas por el fiordo Tunulliarfik hacia el casquete polar. La lluvia y el viento nos azotan bien durante las 2 horas de viaje y por mucha ropa que llevamos, el frío cala.

Llegamos al campamento Fletanes, al pie de la playa y protegido del viento por las montañas que lo rodean, que contrastan con la espectacular vista sobre el frente de hielo que procede del glaciar Qaleraliq, una verdadera muralla de hielo de más de 20 metros de altura. Durante la cena finalmente entramos en calor en la confortable tienda-comedor del campamento, con la ayuda de una botella de vino a precio groenlandes prohibitivo.

Durante toda la noche no deja de llover y dormimos con el atronador ruido del glaciar vivo y de los trozos de hielo (seracs) desprendiéndose, un sonido con lo que tenemos que aprender a vivir durante toda nuestra estancia.

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Expedición al glaciar

La mañana amanece con un sol espléndido y nos acercamos a un lateral del frente glaciar desde donde iniciamos la marcha sobre el hielo, previas instrucciones por parte del guía de alta montaña sobre el uso de los crampones.

Sólo con pensar que marcho sobre una de las masas de hielo más viejas del planeta, me invade una especie de euforia. El glaciar que desde lejos parece una superficie relativamente plana, se nos abre con espectaculares formaciones heladas. Además, la mezcla del hielo blanco con la negra harina glacial, el polvo procedente de la erosión de las rocas durante cientos de años y transportada por los ríos subglaciales, dan la impresión de encontrarnos ante un dibujo hecho con tiza. Exploramos las grietas y sumideros con la debida precaución, donde corren con fuerza los ríos subglaciales en todas las tonalidades azules debido a su contacto con el oxígeno.

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Antes de volver al campamento, recorremos en zodiac los frentes glaciares durante sus más de 10 km de caída al agua, a una distancia que la seguridad permite. Cientos de pájaros de diferentes especies pueblan la zona, que se alimentan de pequeños crustáceos que se alimentan a su vez del plancton que traen los ríos subglaciales.

Paramos los motores y admiranos este espectáculo natural en el más absoluto silencio, no es para menos. Creo que sobran los comentarios.

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Rak

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