Sentir el sonido del silencio – Viaje Groenlandia (2ª parte)

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Narsaq

Salimos con la zodiac temprano y hacemos un viaje de aprox. 1 hora entre enormes icebergs, hacia la ciudad Narsaq en la isla Tugtutoq para repostar. Narsaq es la tercera ciudad del sur de Groenlandia con 1700 habitantes. Bajamos de la zodiac para entrar un poco en calor y de paso dar una vuelta. Los tradicionales iglús (= casa en el idioma del país) hechas con madera de deriva proveniente de Canadá y piel de vejiga de foca o ballena, han sido sustituidos por coloridas casas prefabricadas suministradas desde Dinamarca, que dan a las ciudades y poblaciones un aire de alegría dentro de su vida sumamente dura, al quedarse aislados en los largos meses de invierno.

Y no menos alegre es su población. Sobre todo los niños que nos sonrien constantemente y quieren jugar con nosotros. Y hay que ver, van en manga corta mientras que nosotros vamos con anorak.

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Upernaviarsuk

Una vez de vuelta en la zodiac, seguimos hacia la estación de agricultura e investigación Upernaviarsuk, la meca del cambio climático en Groenlandia. En este pueblo tenemos toda una casita de 2 habitaciones y comedor para nosotros, todo un lujo. Y UNA DUCHA CON AGUA CALIENTE.

Una vez descargado el petate vamos dando paseos por los alrededores y por la mañana visitamos el centro de investigación y agricultura. Este es, posiblemente, el lugar más vinculante de todo Groenlandia para la observación in situ de los efectos del cambio climático en el sur del país. En este centro se realizan continuas investigaciones en agricultura, ganadería, cultivos submarinos, etc., recursos para los que el control de temperatura es de vital importancia. Aquí se está aprovechando que el cambio climático confiere a esa zona un clima más cálido. Pero tienen en contra la tierra sumamente infertil de Groenlandia, que hace que un árbol tarda unos 50 años en crecer medio metro. También los vientos (el famoso foehn que puede llegar a más de 250 km/hora) que destroza los invernaderos.

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Uunartok

A mediodía, navegando por el complejo sistema de fiordos repletos de icebergs, la zodiac nos lleva a nuestro próximo destino, la isla de Uunartoq, donde nos espera el siguiente campamento.

Fascinan también aquí las montañas que nos rodean, con sus pizarras colores y como sacadas de un dibujo japonés. Caminamos un poco para relajarnos en unas cálidas aguas termales de 30º (las únicas accesibles en Groenlandia), donde encontramos un simpático grupo de groenlandeses.

En la isla sólo hay 2 casas. En una de ellas, la señora de la casa que es la madre de uno de los conductores de zodiac, nos invita a una cena típica en su comedor, una tienda tipi: bacalao a la groenlandesa, cocido con agua del fiordo. Esta riquísimo.

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Uunartok – Tasermiut

A las 9 de la mañana la niebla se ha levantado lo suficiente para que la zodiac pueda navegar y nos acerca hasta el puerto de la mina de oro de Kirke Spiret, inaugurada en 2003, baja la característica montaña del mismo nombre. Empezamos una travesía por el «Itillesuaq», un paso a través de la tundra que separa el fiordo «Sermilik» del fiordo «Tasermiut» y que es utilizado desde tiempos de los vikingos como medio de comunicación cuando el hielo procedente del océano ártico es demasiado compacto y no es posible navegar por mar.

A pesar de que estamos a pocos metros sobre el nivel del mar, el paisaje se parece más al de alta montaña. La tundra se mezcla con terreno muy rocoso y un sinfin de pequeños lagos. Y siempre con algún pequeño glaciar a la vista. Se hace bastante pesado andar sobre tundra por ser tan blanda y debajo se esconden piedras y agujeros. Hay que ir con mucho cuidado para no torcerse el tobillo. Tardamos 5 horas para pocos kilómetros.

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Tasermiut

La zodiac nos vuelve a recoger y nos traslada hasta el glaciar «Tasermiut», a lo largo del fiordo del mismo nombre. En la ruta vamos descubriendo las impresionantes montañas del «Ketil, Ulamertorssuaq y Tinitertuup» hasta llegar al pie del glaciar, que cae 1.400 m de desnivel desde el plateau al fiordo en apenas 3 kilómetros, lo que le convierte en una espectacular cascada de hielo de dimensiones gigantescas.

Con la boca abierta por los espectaculares paisajes nos dirigimos a nuestro próximo campamento en el mismo fiordo, donde pasaríamos las siguientes 3 noches, bajo la mole del “Ulamertorsuaq» (lo llamamos cariñosamente el mejillón), una de las paredes más verticales y grandes del mundo, superior al «Capitán» en Yosemite.

Este fiordo, dicho aparte, está considerado como una de las 10 Maravillas del Ártico.

Y como todas las noches, para no quedarnos congelados, hacemos guardia por turnos a ver si vemos la anhelada Aurora Boreal. Y esta noche por fin se dan buenas condiciones. Aunque en esta época del año, por hacerse aún de noche bastante tarde, no se ve tan espectacular como en otoño o invierno, pero a mi ya me basta.

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Los dos días siguientes nos quedamos en el mismo campamento Tasermiut. El primer día hacemos una marcha hasta la base de la impresionante mole de granito “Nalumasortoq” cuyas paredes gemelas extremadamente pulidas las convierten en las más apreciadas del sur de Groenlandia por los escaladores. Desde esta base se puede observar la cara sur del “Ketil” y la norte del “Ulamertorssuaq”, además de muchas otras sin nombre. El paisaje es precioso, muy alpino y glaciar, con vistas extraordinarias.

El segundo día toca una marcha corta hasta la base de la pared del  “Ulamertorssuaq”, considerado el mejor “Bigwall” del Ártico y una de las 10 mejores paredes de escalada del mundo. Esta montaña es de una belleza muy singular.

Por la tarde hacemos “panching” en la playa. Nos atrevemos incluso a bañarnos, algunos en el rio y algunos en el fiordo. Ya está bien de toallitas. Igual nuestra estancia allí resultaría más larga de lo previsto, ya que nos llega la noticia via satélite que en el campamento de Fletanes el viento ha levantado la noche anterior 5 tiendas. No está seguro que la zodiac pudiera venir a recogernos. Pero allí las cosas son así, nosotros tenemos un tiempo espléndido mientras que en otro fiordo es completamente diferente.

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Tasermiut – Tasiusaq

Por la mañana quedamos pendientes de las noticias sobre el tiempo y si la zodiac podía navegar. Finalmente recibimos noticia favorable y nos recogen a las 2, después de comernos nuestro ya tradicional picnic en la playa.

Nos dejan en la desembocadura del río “Kuusuaq”, el río salmonero más famoso de Groenlandia. Desde allí marchamos en un escenario alpino y tundra (como siempre lleno de setas de diversos tipos) hacia el lago “Tasersuaq”, utilizando el sendero de Saputit, creado por los habitantes de “Tasiusaq” para ir a pescar al lago.

Pasamos por lo que es para ellos un bosque. Debido a la poca fertilidad de la tierra allí, los árboles de este bosque de apenas 1 m de altura tardaron unos 50 años en crecer.

Llegamos hacia el atardecer a “Tasiusaq”, un pintoresco pueblo de 80 habitantes, con una trágica historia que bien refleja el modo de vida de ese país en otros tiempos: Hace unos 150 años todos sus habitantes murieron de hambre, siendo repoblado en los años 30 por familiares supervivientes. También aquí nos espera un escenario espectacular entre montañas.

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Tasiusaq

Seguimos en Tasiusaq. Nuestro hospedaje es en la Casa Comunal de la que todos los pueblos disponen, que tiene duchas y una lavadora/secadora para sus habitantes. Los que queríamos, podíamos hospedarnos en casas particulares, y yo naturalmente quería. Junto con otro compañero me fui entonces a dormir a casa del maestro del pueblo, que da clase a 13 niños.

La casa es una típica casa de allí prefabricada de madera, de color rojizo. Por dentro es muy divertida: la sala de estar/comedor está llena de cuadros, fotos, cachivaches y recuerdos varios. La gente duerme allí en el suelo sobre delgados colchones y no tienen armarios, todo está colgado en alguna parte. Y la calefacción a tope. No hago fotos dentro de la casa, lo encuentro una falta de respeto si invado de esa forma su intimidad.

A la mañana siguiente nos levantamos temprano para dar una vuelta por el pueblo. Con la niebla matutina el paisaje es de ensueño. Mientras que esperamos a la zodiac que nos debe llevar a nuestro próximo destino, jugamos con los niños más pequeños del pueblo, los otros les están mirando con envidia desde la ventana de la escuela

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Rak

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