Sentir el sonido del silencio – Viaje Groenlandia (3ª parte)


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Nanortalik

Navegamos durante unos 40 minutos hasta llegar a “Nanortalik”, la ciudad más meridional del país. Con unos 2300 habitantes, es la segunda más habitada del sur de Groenlandia. Esta ciudad permanece aislada por el hielo durante gran parte del año y su nombre significa “lugar donde hay osos polares”, aunque las posibilidades de encontrarnos uno son muy remotas, pero bajan hasta allí en invierno.

La ciudad tiene un Museo de Cultura y Tradiciones Inuit, gran parte del museo está en el exterior y muestra como fabricaron antiguamente los kayak que hasta hoy no falta en ningún hogar, y sus casas (iglús). Allí se pueden ver fotos antiguas de la gente autóctona, diferentes casas e iglús, los iglús también de madera y piel, y algunas casas de madera, en parte semienterradas para preservar el calor. Y kayaks como eran ataño hechas de madera de deriva proveniente de Canadá y piel de foca. El origen del kayak se atribuye precisamente a los inuits y se hacía a medida del propietario. Los menores no podían utilizar estas embarcaciones hasta alcanzar la mayoría de edad, en un acto ritual, entonces la familia le construía su propio kayak para ir a cazar.

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Hoy dormimos en un albergue con camastros (qué lujo). Lo que nos queda de la tarde visitamos la ciudad, que en principio en un par de horas se recorre entera. Como en todas partes del Sur de Groenlandia, la gente vive aparte de la caza, de la pesca que se hace presente en todos los rincones de la ciudad. Pesca de todo tipo de pescado, pero sobre todo pez lobo, bacalao y ballena que pescan para su propio uso. Sólo les está permitido pescar un tipo de ballena en concreto. Además, Nanortalik tiene una de las mayores fábricas de envasado de gambas del pais.

Hay incluso un único restaurante. Lo encontramos pero hay que avisar el día antes porque lo tienen todo congelado. No hay nadie más que nosotros. No queda otra que comprar la cena y hacernos una tortilla de patatas en el albergue.

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Qaqortoq

Al día siguiente nos espera un viaje en barco de 4 horas a Qaqortoq. Esto son palabras mayores teniendo en cuenta las temperaturas y el viento. Pero por la mañana nos dan una sorpresa: nos llevan en helicóptero, que es el autobús de Groenlandia (allí sólo se puede desplazar de una lengüeta de tierra a otra por mar o por aire. Por tierra en trineo de perro o raquetas). El viaje es muy emocionante y las vistas se ensueño desde el aire.

Qaqortoq es la capital del sur de Groenlandia con unos 2800 habitantes y fue fundada en 1775. Sus habitantes la describen como la ciudad más encantadora y atractiva de toda Groenlandia. Y les tengo que dar la razón. Hacemos una pequeña excursión por los alrededores de la ciudad, donde descubrimos la belleza de sus coloridas casas y los impresionantes paisajes que la rodean.

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Esparcidos por el centro encontramo diferentes esculturas en roca y como tengo especial predilección por los puertos con su va-y-ven y sus amasijos de hierro, tengo que ir allí.

En Qaqortoc finalmente podemos cenar en uno de los 3 restaurantes de la ciudad, propiedad de un danés. Comemos una sopa de pescado riquísima y como segundo cordero del pais hecho al horno. Del vino pasamos al ver el precio: más de 40 € la botella. Y también del postre, el precio es prohibitivo.

En el camino nos percatamos de un local que parece un bar nocturno y después de cenar vamos  allí. Resulta ser un karaoke. No entendemos ni papa de lo que se dice por el micrófono, pero sí entendemos que los inuits son muy liberales (eso ya nos lo habían dicho antes), allí ligan, sobre todo las mujeres casadas. También entendemos que beben cerveza como cubas (también nos habían dicho antes que en Groenlandia hay un serio problema de alcoholismo, cosa de los daneses). Pero nos divertimos a lo lindo charlando con los de la mesa vecina y buena música de fondo.

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Igaliku  (Gardar)

Al día siguiente la zodiac nos deja en “Itlleq”, donde vamos a pie por el “Camino de los Reyes” hasta “Igaliku o Gardar”, la ciudad religiosa de Groenlandia en tiempos de los Vikingos. Encontramos allí ruinas de la antigua catedral, se ve aún perfectamente la distribuión, y la tumba del último arzobispo. Este pueblo, de unos 60 habitantes, tiene la particularidad de que la mayoría de sus casas no están hechas de madera como en el resto del país, sino de piedras cogidas de la catedral, hasta que se dieron cuenta que eran históricas.

Aquí quizás deberíamos hurgar un poco en la historia de Groenlandia relacionado con los vikingos. Según La Saga de Erik el Rojo, que narra la historia de unos navegantes noruegos que llegan a Groenlandia. Entre ellos Erik que tuvo que huir de Noruega por causa de «cierta matanza». Su familia y él se establecieron primero en Islandia de donde volvió a ser exiliado por asesinatos hacia el año 982. De acuerdo con la Saga, mató a su vecino Thorgest debido a un conflicto por una pala prestada y a un granjero llamado Valthjof que había asesinado a unos esclavos suyos. Erik se marchó aún más hacia el oeste.

Llamó a ese pais “Greenland” (Tierra Verde), pero no porque todo lo que encontró era verde, sino porque quería atraer a colonizadores. Su hijo, Leif Ericsson, trajo el cristianismo al país y estableció en Igaliku la ciudad religiosa.

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Por la tarde nos recogen nuevamente y hacemos una excursión por mar al fiordo “Qoorooq”, donde se encuentra, según dicen, el glaciar más espectacular del sur de Groenlandia, navegando entre bloques de hielo hasta que la densidad es tal que nos impide el paso. Hay que tener en cuenta de lo que se ve de los icebergs es sólo el 25%, el resto está bajo agua. Esto significa que el conductor de la zodiac tiene que ser sumamente cuidadoso y hábil para no quedarnos encallados o pinchar la barca.

El espectáculo de hielos flotando alrededor nuestro es maravilloso. Nos acercamos a uno de los icebergs para recoger hielo y aparecen por sorpresa vasos y una botella de Baileys. Brindamos nunca mejor dicho con Baileys “on the rocks” por la belleza de esa tierra y por la suerte que tenemos de estar allí para poder contemplarlo.

Quizás debería mencionar, que el glaciar suelta unas 300 toneladas de hielo cada día que van navegando en el fiordo.

Luego ya camino de regreso al albergue base, el Leif Ericsson.

Y por la noche, nuestra última en Groenlandia, el cielo nos regala otra Aurora Boreal. No muy espectacular por el tiempo, tendré que ir en su búsqueda en otra época del año.

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Y mañana, ya el último viaje en zodiac para cruzar el fiordo que nos separa del aeropuerto militar donde aterrizamos hace ya algunas semanas. Volamos a Reikjavik y el avión vuelve a acercarnos a esa preciosa Islandis, ese «trozo» de tierra de casi 2 millones de km2 cubierto de hielo.

Y así finaliza el viaje. Han sido muchos días, 18, muchas impresiones y sentimientos de un pais y sus gentes tan sencillos y simpáticos, tan diferente a lo que conocemos. Incluso hoy, 12 años más tarde, lo sigo reviviendo y quedará en mi memoria para siempre.

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