Mi primera incursión en África – Viaje a Marruecos 2002 (1ª parte)

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Esta era mi primera incursión en 4×4 fuera de España y la primera en general a Africa. Mis conocimientos sobre este continente entonces eran nulos, también los de mi copiloto y compañero de trabajo Thomas que ha venido expresamente de Alemania para acompañarnos en el viaje.

Quizás debería mencionar que las fotos están hechas con una muy sencilla Olympus «de bolsillo» que compré expresamente para el viaje, por el miedo de que la cámara analógica sufriera daños con el polvo y la arena. Así que la calidad no es óptima.

Día 1

Así que, un día a principios de Agosto salimos de casa a las 5 de la mañana. Había dormido poco. La última vez que estaba tan excitada por un viaje, todavía era niña. A las 6 nos encontramos con los demás. Los coches van cargados de planchas, palas, gatos, además de las sorpresas culinarias que algunos llevan escondidas. Después del almuerzo, casi non-stop a Tíjola en Almería, donde nos espera la tía de una compañera para comer. Hablamos de Marruecos. Primera desilusión de Thomas, allí no hay cerveza (no sabe que Ramón y Josep llevan en el coche). En Málaga, donde pasamos la noche, toma las últimas birras por si acaso.

Día 2

Cerca de Algeciras guardamos las emisoras. Embarcamos sin problemas ni colas. En Ceuta a repostar y llenar bidones de reserva. Después, la frontera de Marruecos, un caos total. Colas de gente por todas partes. Rellenar papeles, sellar pasaportes, problemas con mi carta verde. Se soluciona, pagando, y en un par de horas pasamos. No puedo hacer fotos, estamos en una frontera. Ya estamos en Marruecos. Sigue el caos. Gente con ropas multicolores, cientos de viejos Mercedes-Taxi, bicicletas, motos, carros, burros. Las reglas de tráfico aquí no valen, la raya blanca no sirve para nada. Pasados el primer pueblo nos queremos apartar de la carretera para comer. No se puede. En cada camino hay policías que nos impiden el paso. Las calles están llenas de banderas rojas. Esperan a algún pez gordo de visita. Finalmente encontramos un bonito bar donde comemos de nuestras provisiones. Nos sirven bebidas frescas y pruebo por primera vez el sabroso té de menta, bebida marroquí por excelencia.

Llegamos pronto a Tetuán, también llamada “la hija de Granada”. Este sobrenombre, dicen, se debe a que fue fundada en el siglo XV por musulmanes huidos de Granada. No vemos la ciudad, ya que aún no estamos acostumbrados a estas temperaturas, no se parecen a las de casa.

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Dia 3

Al día siguiente temprano hacia Marrakech, donde llegamos al anochecer. Nuevamente el bullicio: bicicletas, motos, carros, cientos de taxis, bocinas. Con la ayuda de un motorista encontramos el hotel. Otra vez a rellenar papeles. Nos merecemos una ducha.  Yo estoy k.o. En el restaurante nos espera una buena cena de bufet libre. Después damos un paseo por el Marrakesh imperial hasta la famosa plaza de Jemaa el Fna, el lugar al que todos acuden para comerciar o exhibir sus destrezas, y donde se instalan encantadores de serpientes, curanderos, músicos, aguadores, recitadores y adivinos. Al anochecer se montan los tenderetes de comida y en la oscuridad, las volutas de humo, los cantos y los tambores nos recuerdan que estamos en África.  Son las 11 de la noche y la gente empieza a despertar, los mayores, con chilaba y fez, los jóvenes con vaqueros y zapatillas deportivas. Pero volvemos al hotel, mañana hay que salir temprano.

Día 4

Hoy salimos camino a las Cascadas de Ouzud. Paramos en el pueblo de Tamelelt para comprar agua, pan y tomates. Me llaman la atención las carnicerías del mercado. Toda la carne está expuesta a pleno sol, las neveras vacías y abiertas. ¡Que aproveche! Seguimos camino hasta llegar a Ouzud. Hace muchísimo calor. Me pongo una camisa para no quemarme. Paseamos y de pronto ante nosotros el espectáculo de uno de los espacios naturales más bellos de Marruecos, las cascadas de 110 m de altura. Y en las puertas del desierto. Encontramos un pequeño camping y pedimos permiso para comer en la sombra, donde Ramón se pone a cocinar una Fideuà. Y esto a 46 grados.

Día 5

Seguimos hacia el sur, dirección Agadir y Tiznit. Hoy toca otra vez etapa de carretera. Hombres sentados en el borde de la carretera observando, burros, bicicletas, motos. La carretera es muy estrecha, sólo cabe un coche y medio. Hay muchos camiones y van muy lentos. Me hacen correr con los adelantamientos. “Dále, Marion, con decisión”. No estreno 4ª. Cuando llego a la gasolinera, no me parece nada divertido. En comparación con los coches más grandes que sólo les cuesta 150 Dirhams, yo pago 450. Tengo que tomarlo con más calma, sino no me llega el dinero hasta el final del viaje. Y lo más curioso, no tengo ni idea cuantos días más va a durar el viaje. He perdido por completo la noción del tiempo. Me había dejado el reloj en casa. Me guío únicamente por la posición del sol (aproximadamente), y el estómago de mi copiloto, que no falla. Total. Me da igual el día que es ni la hora.

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Día 6

Salimos pronto por la mañana. Abandonamos las zonas verdes para adentrarnos en un paisaje desolado de piedras, polvo y arena, pasando por Oueds y lagos secos. Vamos camino a Fort Bou Jerif, un antiguo fuerte militar recuperado por un médico francés y convertido en un campamento para gente como nosotros. Aligeramos peso ocupando nuestra jaima bereber y nos vamos a echar un vistazo a Playa Blanca, a 40 km del fuerte. A la entrada, un enorme barco varado y completamente oxidado, el Zara. Nos paramos a admirar el paisaje. A la izquierda el mar, después la playa, el barco con nosotros delante y a la derecha dunas. Que pequeños somos a su lado. Hago mi foto favorita. Tenemos suerte, hay marea baja. Bajamos presión de ruedas. Y ahora a correr. Tengo curiosidad como se va, es mi estreno en la arena. Joan me dice: “Lo más importante – gaaas”. Arranco, no hago ni medio metro y me quedo clavada. Observo a los demás. Pronto cojo el truco.  Thomas me anima: “Gas, dále gas”.  Cantan los motores. En 1ª reductora y a 5000 revoluciones. El Wrangler se está divirtiendo. La temperatura no sube ni un grado, es lo suyo. Salgo de las rodaduras del delantero y voy por mi cuenta. Se va mejor y el Jeep vuela por la arena. Pesa la mitad que los demás. A cada 3 km hay un barquito varado. Hay mucha basura en la playa que el mar había arrastrado. Hay que esquivarla lo mejor que se puede. Nos paramos cada 10 minutos para enfriar motores. Después de 10 km giramos y volvemos, esta vez de un tirón. Subimos nuevamente presión de ruedas mientas los motores se enfrían y volvemos al fuerte a preparar la tienda. En la cena corren los chistes (no siempre son malos) y nos reímos mucho. Y después al saco de dormir.

Día 7

Desde Fort Bou Jerif vamos directamente al próximo pueblo a lavar los coches para que la sal marina de Playa Blanca no nos juegue una mala pasada durante el resto del viaje. Seguimos dirección Tata, pasando por hermosos pueblos al pie de enormes rocas de extrañas formas. Subimos por una pequeña montaña sin apenas vegetación y nos paramos en una explanada para comer. Hace más de 45 grados y extendemos toldos entre varios coches para captar un poco de sombra. Hoy sólo haremos unos 380 km y nos tomamos la comida con mucha calma.

Por la tarde entramos en el cauce del Oued de Tafraoute. Cambia por completo el paisaje. No puedo creérmelo. Una garganta completamente verde en una franja de apenas 20 metros a cada lado del oued, palmeras, plantaciones de menta, maíz. Vamos muy despacio para admirar esta belleza. Los niños vienen corriendo hacia nosotros, descalzos sobre las piedras, con una gran sonrisa en sus caras. Llevan ropas de colores alegres y les regalamos gorras, bolis y camisetas. Al salir del oued nos encontramos de nuevo con terreno pedregoso en medio de pequeños montes que a la luz del atardecer dibujan formas pizarras en una gran variedad de tonos amarillos. Hoy dormimos en Tata.

 

Continuará ………

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Marion On The Road

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  350. Профессиональный сервисный центр по ремонту фототехники в Москве.
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