Mi primera incursión en África – Viaje a Marruecos 2002 (2ª parte)


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Dia 8

Después de arreglar una avería en un coche, nos encaramos hacia el corazón del Sahara. Van a ser durillos los próximos días. Cogemos pronto pista rápida, la pista del Dakar, y a correr como quieres y donde quieres, total no hay nada hasta donde llega la vista, sólo desierto. Se levanta el viento. Un torbellino de arena viene derecho hacia nosotros. Pero nadie se inmuta, ya sabrán lo que hacen, espero. No se ve casi nada. Siguen puramente la aguja del GPS. Y yo pegada a la trasera de Joan para no perderme, no llevo GPS. Apenas distingo sus luces antiniebla. Pero tan pronto entramos en la tormenta, tan rápido se acaba. Seguimos corriendo en medio de la nada, a través de oueds de arena y lagos secos. Se acerca la hora de comer y vamos hacia un oasis. A lo lejos ya se distingue un grupo de palmeras. “De las películas pensaba que los oasis eran más grandes”, comenta Thomas, “que pequeño lo veo”. Cruzamos el último río de arena y de pronto lo tenemos delante, un jardín de palmeras enorme. Después de comer más o menos en la sombra con agua y Coca Cola más o menos fría, me toca repostar, llevo jerrycan. El calor es agobiante y seguimos ruta enseguida por tierras desérticas. Por el camino algunos camellos, muy delgados, otros muertos. Algún que otro matojo medio seco asoma tímidamente entre las piedras y la arena. A lo lejos se distinguen las dunas. Al atardecer ya cogemos asfalto que nos lleva a Zagora, donde pasamos la noche.

Día 9

Salimos del pueblo hacia mediodía. Atravesamos un hermoso palmeral medio hundido en la arena. Y en medio, nuevamente plantaciones de menta y maíz. Buscamos el modo de cruzar el oued pedregoso. Encontramos un puente y pasamos al otro lado para adentrarnos de nuevo en el desolado y a su vez bello paisaje del más profundo desierto. Dejamos atrás algunos pequeños pueblos con sus singulares cementerios. Sus casas son del mismo color que su entorno, gris como el polvo que les rodea. Llegamos temprano a Neckob, donde nos hospedamos en su campamento bereber. Por la noche damos un paseo por el pueblo. Oímos música y nos acercamos. Están celebrando una boda y nos invitan a entrar, con la condición de no hacer fotos. Me cachis! A un lado están sentadas las mujeres y niños en traje de fiesta, al otro los hombres vestidos de blanco. Empieza el baile y el canto de poemas. La celebración no ha hecho más que empezar. Dura tres días. El novio no sale hasta el final. Pero tenemos que dejar el bello espectáculo, se nos hace tarde.

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Día 10

Salimos temprano hacia las dunas. Los colores del paisaje van variando. El gris del suelo pedregoso se alterna con el naranja de la arena, el blanco de los lagos secos y a lo lejos el amarillo de las dunas. Y finalmente llegamos a una de las puntas del Erg Chebbi, el masivo de dunas más grande de Marruecos. Ponemos los coches en posición para hacer la obligada foto. Pero rápido, ya se acercan los niños del cercano pueblo. Vienen corriendo y en bicicleta. Seguimos hacia las dunas en tierras arenosas. Como es de esperar, yo soy la primera en quedarme clavada. Pero me sacan enseguida. Nos aventuramos a entrar en las dunas, la hora en principio no es la más adecuada, la arena está muy blanda. No veo nada, sólo una masa naranja. Yo sigo las rodaduras de los que van en cabeza, que es lo único que logro distinguir a duras penas. Paso la cresta de una duna y no veo que Jordi ha girado a la derecha. Me meto de morro en la duna siguiente. Pero salgo sin problemas, alguna ventaja tiene que tener mi coche que pesa poco. En la siguiente duna ya voy con más precaución. Mal hecho, porque no subo. En el tercer intento me quedo finalmente clavada. Ramón se acerca, me saca el coche y se larga con él, le ha cogido el gustillo. Joan es el siguiente que se queda. Pero allí es más complicado, a sacar palas y planchas. Marcan 53° de temperatura. “Marion, apártate y deja pasar a Josep”. No sé quien va a sacar a quién, porque Josep también se ha hundido en la arena. No obstante, como soy una chica obediente, me aparto para dejar pasar a algún coche más grande, con el pequeño inconveniente de que allí la arena es más blanda. Una vez todos a flote, Joan está hasta los mismísimos de currar y salimos de las dunas. Vamos derechos a Erfoud, una ciudad construido en los años 30 por la Legión Extranjera.

Día 11

Quedamos hoy en sólo rodear el Erg Chebbi. Con la experiencia de ayer ya basta. Queremos salir temprano. Pero que mala suerte. Una de mis ruedas está floja y tengo que llavarla a arreglar. Un niño de apenas 8 años me la arregla. Dejamos pronto el asfalto y vamos hacia el Erg Chebbi por el otro lado del que venimos ayer. Y allí está, un soberbio cordón de doradas dunas que se adentran en las inmensidades del Sahara. Aparte, no hay nada más que ver, pero con esto basta y de sobra. Me avisan que vuelvo a tener la rueda deshinchada, ya va la cuarta. Con ayuda la cambio y de paso bajamos presión de neumáticos. Es un poco tarde y la arena ya está muy blanda. Rodeamos las dunas y nos paramos en un albergue, diría que el único, a comer. Hasta ahora he soportado bien el calor, pero allí dentro empiezo a sofocarme un poco. Por la tarde seguimos hacia Tinerhir, ya a las puertas del Atlas, donde nos prometemos unas temperaturas algo más agradables. Antes de ir al hotel, nos acercamos a las famosas gargantas del Todra. Bonita vista desde arriba con su franja verde en el fondo, pero el resto turismo.

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Día 12

Nos esperan 500 km cruzando el Alto Atlas. Atravesamos las preciosas gargantas de Dades. Trozos enteros de carretera arrancados nos indican que hacía poco había llovido. Circulamos por el río que sólo lleva algunos charcos de agua. Iniciamos la subida hacia el puerto de montaña más alto por una pista de montaña muy estrecha. Nos cruzamos con un grupo de mujeres, o más bien niñas, con sus burros cargados de leña. Se empieza a notar que la vida aquí es más dura. Ya no nos piden bolígrafos, nos piden comida. Seguro que llevan kilómetros andando para buscar leña en forma de matojos para el invierno. Arriba, a 2800 m de altura, los termómetros marcan 28°. Nos parece incluso frío. Pasamos por la última cima y nos encontramos de frente a un lago de color turquesa profunda, el lago Tislit. Comemos en el albergue al lado del lago y seguimos camino hacia Meknès, antígua capital imperial. Ya nos queda la última noche en Marruecos. Estamos todos muy cansados, hemos hecho cerca de 4000 km.

Último día

Emprendemos ya camino hacia Ceuta. Se nota ya la gran diferencia entre el Sur y el Norte del país. La gente se mueve más en caballos, hay infraestructura. La vegetación es mucho más abundante.

En la frontera nuevamente largas colas para control de pasaportes y documentación de vehículos. Esta vez tardamos bastante más en pasar. También en Ceuta hay más espera para embarcar. Finalmente embarcamos. Todos estamos muy callados. Estamos dormitando o meditando, algo tristes.

Ya en España, pasamos la noche en un hotel de carretera cerca de Loja. Desde allí, el día siguiente ya vamos por nuestra cuenta hacia casa.

Un par de meses más tarde, aún estoy cautivada por las imágenes que me perviven en la memoria. El paisaje marroquí con sus numerosos montañas, feraces cultivos, estepas y la vacía inmensidad del desierto tiene mucho que ofrecer al visitante. Es un viaje que pone a prueba el cuerpo y apacigua el espíritu. Y si lo vives con un grupo de gente encantador como tuve la suerte de hacerlo yo, más que unas vacaciones, he vivido una verdadera aventura.

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